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EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



THE SCIENTIFIC 



Lady Tailor System 



FOR 



CUTTING LADIES' DRESSES *? COATS. 



NO FITTING TO DO. 



IMPROVED AND SIMPLIFIED 



, "AUG ? 8 11 

SECOND EDITION. V 



AS TAUGHT BY 

^PROF. LOUIS MOLPOERO 

WASHINGTON, D. C. 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



Important Notice. 

No person shall have any right, whatever, to use in any 
manner my Scientific Lady Tailor System without having 
first procured from me, or my authorized agent, a book signed 
by me. 

Entered according to act of Congress, on the fifth day of 
March, 1891, by Louis Molpoer, in the office of the Librarian 
of Congress, at Washington, D. C. No. of copyright, 8375. 

All rights reserved. 



Sfiis is lo dectify, Thai M 

has the right to use my 

Improved System of Dress Cutting, for which has been paid the 
sum of $5.00. 



Teaching 



I agree to use the said system for my own use only, and will 
not teach it to any one without the written consent of 
the owner, or a duly authorized agent. 



i I A) O 






EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



Rules for Basting. 

A basting thread must be run on the line of the waist. 

Baste carefully, that lining and outside are perfectly smooth. 

In basting up the waist, pin at the waist and arm lines, and 
hold long seam next to you. The most troublesome seam in 
the whole waist is the curved side body seam, which comes 
next to the back. In basting this seam on one side of the back 
commence at the waist line and go up as in other seams, holding 
the outward curved seam toward you. The other side must be 
pinned at the waist line, and at intervals up the seam, then 
commence basting at the top, holding the outward curved seam 
toward you, as on the other side. 

In sewing up seams do not have the machine stitch too short, 
or it will draw. 

Nick the seams, so that the waist will spring nicely into the 
figure, and then press them all open. If you wish to finish 
with tailor-like neatness, bind the seams with ribbon. 

No hook and eye pieces are required, but instead a waist- 
band should be put inside the dress to keep it in place. 

All seams must be allowed. One-half inch is enough, except 
under the arms, where the seams should be somewhat deeper. 
It is absolutely necessary to use a tracing wheel in order to 
have your lines perfectly true. 

After the dress is well cut, it must be made with great care, 
paying strict attention to the rules. 

In cutting velvet, the nap must be run up ; in plush like- 
wise ; in sealskin, down. 

In cutting plaid be sure to match the stripes in waist, skirt 
and trimming, which can always be done. 

If the silesia, drilling, or other material used for lining the 
waist, is cut crossways it is less apt to stretch. It is economy 
to use a good quality of material for lining, as a poor lining 
will wear out sooner than outside goods, and the result will be 
that the seam will stretch, and the waist lose its shape. 

A dress should not be made so tight as to draw. The corset 
should be pulled in as required, and the waist should be fitted 
over it easily and without wrinkles. The seams will stretch 
and fray out if this rule is not followed. The same corset should 
be worn with the dress it was measured and fitted over, as 
different corsets change the figure. A dressmaker should make 
it a rule never to measure a lady over old or ill-fitting corsets. 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



The Purpose of This Book. 



This book is intended to explain the principles of Dress 
Cutting, and is founded on systematic rules, by which any one 
can learn to measure, draft, baste, cut, fit and make dresses 
without further instruction. 

To Dressmakers. — It will be of great use to the professional 
dressmakers, who, like the inventor, have had the same sad 
experience in the use of all other charts and systems. 

To Ladies in Private Life. — It is especially adapted to the 
use of those ladies who wish to alter or make their own dresses 
for home and morning wear. It is as much trouble or more to 
a dressmaker to make a chintz or percale dress, as one of more 
expensive material ; yet few ladies are willing to pay as much, 
for it is probable that the making would often be three times 
as much as the original cost. If this class of work be done by 
the ladies themselves, or if they choose to superintend it at 
home, professional dressmakers will have more time to devote 
to the finer or more artistic work. 

To Young Ladies. — Young ladies, to you this book and the 
system it teaches will be valuable. Many of you object to 
spending at least six to eight months' time in learning the 
trade. Most of those who do this are but wasting their time. 
There are few who are taught the art of measuring, drafting, 
or cutting by rule, basting and fitting, and that all seams are 
put together differently ; some having to be stretched, while 
others should be held in. In fact, we have known dressmakers 
who never allowed their apprentices to get a glimpse of these 
necessary things, but kept them continually employed in one 
special branch, such as quilling, ruffling, fluting, button-hole 
making, overcasting, etc. 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



The time has now come when a young lady's education will 
be considered unfinished unless she is an adept in this art. 

We guarantee perfect Arm Holes, Sleeves, Busts, Darts, 
Curves and Neck without Refitting. It is simply perfect in all 
its simplicity and beauty, and we are pleased to cut any one 
Test Dress to Prove its Merits. 

Never take instructions in any system without having Test 
Dress cut and tried on. Many claim to be self-fitting, but 
judge for yourself whether the fit is good or bad. 

We have tried all these so-called Tailor Systems, and do not 
wonder that experienced dressmakers are disgusted with them. 
Practice and experience enable us to say that we have yet to 
record a single failure in the use of our New system. 

It is our experience and the basis of our system, that with- 
out a perfect arm hole it is impossible to have perfect fitting 
waist and sleeves. 

Our system is the only one by which a perfect sleeve can be 
made without a particle of alteration. The rules are so plain 
both for measuring and drafting, that with ordinary care a 
mistake is almost impossible. 

Many will inquire, " What is the difference between the 
Scientific Lady Tailor System, and the other so-called Tailor 
Systems ? " Taught from pasteboard, with imitation square 
attached, which are only a deception and fraud, as no person 
will ever be able to use a square without the attachment. 

By learning the Scientific Lady Tailor System, you will be 
competent to cut like a tailor, by the tape measure alone, 
designated from any fashion plate, either English, French or 
American styles. This can be learned in a very short time ; a 
few hours will instruct a dressmaker without refitting or the use 
of any pattern. 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



Measure for Drafting Basque. 



1. 


Waist, - 


2. 


Tinder Arm, 


o 
O. 


Arm Eye. 


4. 


Width of Back, 


5. 


Length of Back, 


6. 


Neck, 


7. 


Bust, - 


8. 


Length of Front, 


9. 


Width of Chest, 


10. 


Height of Dart, 


11. 


Height of Hip. 


12. 


Around Hip, 


13. 


Shoulder, 


14. 


Neck to Elbow. 


15. 


Inside to Bend, 


16. 


Inside to Wrist. 


17. 


Upper Arm. - 


18. 


Middle, - 


11). 


Elbow, - 


20. 


Lower Arm. 


21. 


Wrist, - 





22 


inches 


- 


8 


a 


- 


141 


u 


- 


12 


a 


- 14 


xli 


a 


- 


13 


a 


- 


36 


a 


- 


134 


a 


- 


12 


u 


- 


;>a 


a 


- 


4 


a 


- 


36 


a 


- 


4* 


a 


- 


IDA 


a 


- 


8 


a 


- 


16 


a 


- 


12 


a 


- 


11 


.. 


- 


11 


a 


- 


10 


u 


- 


8 


a 



Directions for Taking Measures. 



1. Waist Measure. — Draw tape tight around the waist. 

2. Under Ann. — First put on the bolt, and then measure 
from the bottom of the belt to close under the arm. 

.">. Arm Eye. — Place tape under the arm and draw tape up 
over end of shoulder. 



Width of Back. — From arm t<» arm. 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



5. Length of Back. — From the bone of the neck to the 
bottom of the belt, and if the lady is long waisted there is an 
extension below the belt varying from one to one and one- 
fourth inches, which should always be added to the length of 
back below line 1. 

6. Neck Measure. — Place the tape around the neck, close 
over the inside collar. 

7. Bust Measure. — Place the tape around the fullest part 
of the bust up over the shoulder blades closely. 

8. Length of Front. — Front hollow in the neck to lower 
part of belt. 

9. Chest Measure. — From shoulder to shoulder across the 
chest. 

10. Height of Dart. — From the bottom of the belt up. 

11. Height of Hip. — From the belt down to the hip bone. 

12. Hip Measure. — Around the hip over the bustle. 

13. Shoulder Measure. — From the neck to end of shoulder. 

14. Neck to Elbow Measure. — Place the hand to the neck 
before measuring, then pass the tape from the neck over point 
of shoulder to the point of elbow. 

15. Inside Measure to the Bend of the Arm. — Place the tape 
close up under the arm and measure to the inside bend of the 
elbow. 

16. Inside Measure to Wrist. — While you have the tape as 
in direction 15, bring tape on down to the wrist, and note both 
measures. 

17. Upper Arm Meamre. — Around the arm. The same for 
middle and lower arm measures, keeping the arm bent so the 
muscles will expand. 

18. Elbow Measure. — Place the tape around the elbow when 
the arm is straight, then bend the arm, keeping the tape over 
the point of the elbow. 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



11). Wrist Measure. — Place the tape around the hand over 
the thumb, so the sleeve will be just large enough for the hand 
to slip through. 

20. Skirt Measure. — Place the tape at the bottom of the 
belt and bring down to the top of the right foot, which is placed 
out, while the lady stands upright. The back should be two 
inches longer if bustle is wanted. Skirt should vary in width 
according to the size of the wearer, from two and one-eighth 
yards to two and one-half. Two and one-eighth for a medium 
♦sized lady. 



Always Use a Belt. 



Never take a measure without using a belt, as you are likely 
to take back length too long, which will cause wrinkles on the 
hips and too much length between arm and neck. Strictly 
observe all rules in the book and we guarantee a fit without 
alteration. 

The use of curvatures is to get even lines ; unless you do 
this your seams will not be straight, which causes wrinkles. 
There are a very few who are able to curve without the aid of 
curvatures. 

Draw straight lines, - 

Curve even seams. - 

Trace in the lines, - 

Stitch straight. 

Press seams open, - - - 



10 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



BASQUE No, 



COPYRIGHTED. 




EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 11 



Directions for Basque No. 1. 



1. Draw line 1 eight inches from the bottom of the paper 
for belt line. 

2. Draw line 2 the height of under arm measure above linel. 

3. Draw line 3 the diameter of arm eye measure above 
line 2. 

4. Draw line 1 the length of back above line 1, one inch 
from the edge of the paper to the right and add the extension 
below line 1. 

5. Dot to the left of line 4, on lines 1 and 3, half the width 
of the back, and draw line 5 through dots just made, from line 
3 to line 1. 

6. Dot to the left of line 5, on lines 1 and 3, the diameter 
of the arm eye measure and draw line 6 through the dots just 
made from line 3 to line 1. 

7. Dot on lines 1 and 3, to the left of line 4, half the bust 
measure, and draw line 7 through clots just made from line 3 
down the w T hole length of front. 

8. Draw slanting diameter of square, by drawing a cross 
mark from the junction of lines 3 and 5, and 3 and 6. 

9. Draw T line 8 to the left of line 4, one-sixth of the neck 
measure, for back of the neck. 

10. Draw line 9 from the end of line 8 to the junction of 
lines 2 and 6, for back shoulder line. 

11. Dot A is one inch to the left of the end of line 4, 
below line 1, and draw a line from junction lines 8 and 4 
to dot A. 

12. Take half the space between 5 and 6, on line 1, and 
make dot K, draw slanting w T aist line from dot A to K and 
draw to the end of line 7. 



12 EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



13. Dot to the right of line 7 on line 3, one-fourth the 
neck measure and draw line 10 up from dot just made on line 
3, one-half of an inch less for front of neck, and use neck curva- 
ture from the end of line 10 to one-half of an inch below 
line 3 to line 7. 

14. Draw line 11 from top of neck to junction of 3 and 5. 

15. Place the end of the rule at the top of neck, letting it 
cross center of the square and measure from the top of the 
neck for shoulder and make a dot the length of the shoulder. 

16. To the right of line 7, one and one-half inches above 
line 2, take half the chest measure and make a dot where 
half the chest measure comes. 

17. To curve the arm eye, first take half the space between 
lines 9 and 2 on line 5 and make dot F, and then curve from 
the junction of lines 9 and 5 to dot V. and then round to 
half the space between lines 5 and 6 on line 2 and then up 
through the chest measure and up to shoulder measure and 
above line 11, the height of arm eye measure, then measure 
the back shoulder line, and make the front shoulder one-quarter 
of an inch shorter, and curve from the top of the arm eye to 
top of the neck. 

18. One inch to the left of dot A, make dot B, take half 
the space between dot A and line 5 on waist line and make 
dot C. Dot D is one-half inch to the right of line 5 on 
waist line. Dot E is one-half inch to the left of slanting 
diameter to the right in arm eye. 

19. Place large end of curvature at dot B and draw a 
curved line to one-fourth of an inch above dot F, and curve 
down to half the space between dot F and E in arm eye ; for 
inside of back, use curvature the same way from dot C, letting 
it touch back line at line 2 for outside of side body. 

20. Use ihe curvature the same way from dot D to dot E 
for inside of side body. 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 13 

21. Measure the space between lines 6 and 7 on slanting 
w T aist line, for darts, in four equal parts. The space between 
darts is found by measuring three-eighths of an inch on each 
side of the center mark. 

22. Draw a line in each center of space for darts, front dart 
according to measure, and back dart one-fourth inch higher, 
and slanting back one-fourth inch, then curve for darts by 
placing the small end of curvature on the end of each line and 
curve to waist line. 

23. Curve the back of neck from end of line 9 to one-half 
inch below line 8 on line 4, then measure back neck and front 
neck to half of neck measure and make a (dot.) Curve front of 
waist from this dot one-half inch above line 2, make rounding 
curve and into height of dart and into waist line one-half inch, 
and out to line 7 at bottom of paper. 

24. To find the back line of the front and under arm gore, 
measure from D to C for side body, and from B to A for back, 
omitting the space between B and C, and then from the front 
curved line to front dart, omitting the width of darts, measure 
the space between the darts and from the back dart to half the 
waist measure and make dot G. If G comes to the right of 
line 5 then use rule 24 of No. 2 Basque, if not measure half the 
space between G and back dart and make dot H. 

25. Draw line 12 from II up to arm eye straight for back 
of front and front of under arm gore, and draw line 13 from G 
to E for back of under arm gore. 

26. Extend lines 4 and 7 to the bottom of paper and center 
lines of darts, slanting back one-fourth inch, also outside lines 
of darts, leaving one-half inch each side the center lines at the 
bottom of paper. 

27. Measure for hip line on lines 7 and 4 ; from line 1 the 
height of hip and draw line 14 for hip line. Mark C, D, G 
and H on hip line, exactly below letters on waist line. 

28. Draw back line from A to one-half inch to the left of 
end of line 4 at bottom of paper with rule. 



14 EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 

29. Draw inside of back from B straight down to bottom of 
paper with rule. 

30. Back of the side body is sloped from C one inch to the 
right of C on hip line with curvature. 

31. Front of side bod}^ is sloped from D one inch to the left 
of D on hip line. 

32. Back of under arm gore is sloped from G one inch to 
the right of G on hip line. 

33. Front of under arm gore is sloped from H one inch to 
the left of II on hip line. 

34. Back of front is sloped from II one and one-fourth 
inches to the right of H on hip line. 

35. If too large or too small after measuring all the places 
on hip line, add on or take off to suit the hip measure. 

P. S. — Always baste the sleeves in, and the collar on, before 
putting on the garment. 





To 

inches 


Draft the Me 

in circumference 


asure 


of Arm 

diameter 


Eye. 

of 2 




6 


gives a 


inches 


7 


a 




^ 




a 


a 




2i 


a 


8 


a 




u ' 




a 


a 




2* 


a 


9 


i. 




a 




.. 


a 




o 
O 


a 


10 


a 




a 




a 


a 




o 1 


a 


11 


li 




a 




u 


a 




3 A 
02 


a 


12 


it 




a 




a 


a 




31 


a 


13 


a 




a 




a 


a 




4 


a 


14 


a 




a 




a 


a 




4i 


a 


15 


a 




Si 




V. 


a 




U 


it 


16 


a 




a 




a 


a 




n 


a 


17 


a 




a 




a 


a 




5 


a 


18 


u 




.. 




a 


d 




5J 


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19 


u 




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5* 


a 


20 


a 




a 




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JfBgjg^Take particular care not to get diameter too large. 



16 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



BASQUE No. 2, 



COPYRIGHTED. 




EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 17 



Directions for Basque No. 2. 



Proceed as in Basque No. 1 until you get to rule 24. 

24. One inch to the left of dot K, on waist line, make dot 
H, and draw line 12 from II up to arm eye straight for back 
of front ; then measure side body, back and front, and take 
the remainder of the waist measure ; put one half to the right 
of K and make dot G, the other half to the left of K on waist 
line and make dot I ; draw line 13 from G to E for back of 
under arm gore, draw line 14 from I up to top of line 12 for 
front of under arm gore. 

25. Extend lines 4 and 7 to the bottom of paper and center 
lines of darts, slanting back one-fourth inch, also outside lines of 
darts, leaving one-half inch each side the center lines at the 
bottom of paper. 

26. Measure for hip line on lines 7 and 4 from line 1, the 
height of hip, and draw line 15 for hip line. Mark C, D, G, 
H and I on hip line, exactly below letters on waist line. 

27. Draw back line from A to one-half inch to the left of 
end of line 4 at bottom of paper with rule. 

28. Draw inside of back from B straight down to bottom of 
paper with rule. 

29. Back of the side body is sloped from C one inch to the 
right of C on hip line. 

30. Front of side body is sloped from D one inch to the 
left of D on hip line. 

31. Back of under arm gore is sloped from G one inch to 
the right of G on hip line. 

32. Front of under arm gore is sloped from I three-fourths 
of an inch to the left of I on hip line. 

33. Back of front is sloped from II one and one-fourth 
inches to the right of H on hip line. 

34. If too large or too small after measuring all the places 
on hip line, add on or take off to suit the hip measure. 



18 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



BASQUE FOR FRENCH BIAS DART. 



COPYRIGHTED. 




EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 19 



French Bias Dart. 



Proceed as in Basque No. 1 until you get to rule 21. 

21. To the right of line 7, on waist line take half the chest 
measure and make a dot, divide the space between this dot 
and line 7 into four equal parts for darts. Curve the darts 
the same as in plain basque with the exception of curving the 
back of the back dart, which is curved through the chest 
measure to four inches below the waist line. 

22. Curve the front of the waist the same as in basque 
No. 1. 

23. Three-fourth inch to the left of line 5 make dot G and 
three inches to the left of dot G make dot H, on waist line ; 
draw a line from H up to arm eye straight for front of under 
arm gore, and draw line 13 from G to E for back of under arm 
gore. 

24. Then measure from H to G for under arm gore, and 
from D to C for side body, from B to A for back, and from 
front curved line to dart, space between the darts and from 
back bias dart to half the waist measure and make a dot. 
Place the small end of curvature to the top of line H and 
curve down to half the waist measure, dot on waist line for 
line 12, which makes the back of the front. 

P. S. — Half the waist measure (dot) should come within 
one-quarter inch either to right or left of K, if not make under 
arm gore larger or smaller. 

25. Extend lines 4 and 7 to the bottom of the paper, and 
centre lines of darts and outside lines of front dart and left 
side of back dart to three-eighths of an inch from centre lines 
at bottom of paper. 

26. Measure for hip line on lines 4 and 7 the height of 
hip, below line 1, and draw line 14 for hip line. Mark C, D, 
G and H on hip line exactly below letters on waist line. 



20 EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 

27. Draw outside of back from A to down one-half inch to 
the left of line 4 at bottom of the paper with rule. 

28. Draw inside of back from B straight down to bottom 
of paper with rule. 

29. Back of side body is sloped from C one inch to the 
right of C on hip line with curvature. 

30. Front of side body is sloped from D one inch to the 
left of D on hip line. 

31. Back of under arm gore is sloped from G to one inch 
to the right of G on hip line. 

32. Front of under arm gore is sloped from II one-half 
inch to the left of H on hip line. 

33. Then measure under arm gore, side body and back and 
from front curved line to the dart space between the darts and 
from back bias dart to half the hip measure and make a dot on 
hip line. Curve from line 12 on waist line to this dot on hip 
line for back of front. 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 21 



Rules for Two Under Arm Gores — Bias Dart. 



Proceed as in basque for French Bias Dart until you get to 
under arm gores. 

1. Take width of side body and one-half inch to the right 
of dot K and make dot G on waist line and dot I to the left of 
dot G the width of side body, and draw line 14 from I up to 
arm eye straight for front of front under arm gore and draw 
line 13 from G up to half the space between dot E and top of 
line 11 in arm eye for back of front under arm gore. 

2. Again take width of side body and one-half inch to left 
of dot K, make dot L and dot N to the right of L the width of 
side body and draw line 15 from L up to top of line 13 in arm 
eye for front of back under arm gore. Draw line 16 from N to 
dot E for back of back under arm gore. 

3. Measure from I to G and from L to N for under arm 
gores, and then from D to C for side body, and from B to A 
for back, and from front curved line to dart space between 
darts, and from back bias dart to half the waist measure and 
make a dot. Use small end of curvature from top of line 14 to 
dot just made on waist line for back of front, which makes 
line 12. 

4. Proceed for hip measure as in basque above with the 
exception of under arm gores which are curved one-half inch to 
right and left of letters on hip line. Measure under arm gores, 
side body, back from front curved line to dart, space between 
the darts from the back bias dart to half the hip measure and 
make a dot on hip line, and curve from end of line 12 on waist 
line to dot just made on hip line for back of front. 



22 



EVERY LADY ITER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



BASQUE FOR TWO UNDER ARM GORES. 



COPYRIGHT*:!). 




EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 23 



Basque for Two Under Arm Gores. 



Proceed as in Basque No. 1 until you get to rule 24. 

24. One and one-half inches to the left of dot K make dot 
H, and draw line 12 from dot II up to arm eye straight for 
back of front, then measure side body back and front ; take 
half of the remainder of the waist measure and put equally to 
the right of K and make dot G, and to the left of dot H make 
dot I, and draw line 13 from dot G up to half the space be- 
tween dot E and end of line 12 in arm eye, and draw line 14 
from dot I to top of line 12, which makes front under arm 
gore, and then take the remaining portion of waist measure 
and one-half inch to the left of dot K make dot L and dot N 
to the right where the remainder of the waist measure comes, 
and draw line 16 from dot N to dot E, and draw line 15 from 
dot L up to top of line 13, which makes back under arm gore. 

25. Extend lines 4 and 7 to the bottom of paper and centre 
lines of darts, slanting back one-fourth inch, also outside lines of 
darts, leaving one-half inch each side the centre lines at the 
bottom of paper. 

26. Measure for hip line on lines 7 and 4 from line 1, the 
height of hip, and draw line 17 for hip line. Mark C, D, N, G, 
L, H and I on hip line, exactly below letters on waist line. 

27. Draw back line from A to one-half inch to the left of 
end of line 4 at bottom of paper with rule. 

28. Draw inside of back from B straight down to bottom of 
paper with rule. 

29. Back of the side body is sloped from C one inch to the 
right of C on hip line. 

30. Front of side body is sloped from D one inch to the 
left of D on hip line. 



24 EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 

3 1 . Back of back under arm gore is sloped from N to one- 
half inch to the right of N on hip line. Front of back under 
arm gore is sloped from L to one-half inch to the left of L on 
hip line. 

32. Back of front under arm gore is sloped from (1 to one- 
half inch to the right of G on hip line. Front of front under 
arm gore is sloped from I to one-half inch to the left of I on 
hip line. 

33. Back of the front is sloped from II one and one fourth 
inch to the right of H on hip line. 



2G 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



PRINCESS OR POLONAISE. 



COPYRIGHTED. 





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EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 27 



Princess or Polonaise. 



Proceed as in Basque No. 1, until you get to Rule 22. 

22. Draw a line in each center of space for darts, after 
taking out one-fourth of each dart from the outside of darts, 
and draw front dart according to measure, and back dart one- 
quarter inch higher, and slanting back one-fourth inch, then 
curve for darts by placing the small end of long curvature on 
the end of each line and curve to waist line. 

23. Curve the back of neck from end of line 9 to one-half 
inch below line 8 on line 4, then measure back neck and front 
neck to half of neck measure and make a (dot.) Curve front 
of waist from this dot one-half inch above line 2, make rounding 
curve and into height of dart and into waist line one-half inch, 
and out to line 7 at bottom of paper. 

24. Then measure the side body and back, and from front 
curved line to dart, omitting the space of darts, and measure 
the space between darts, and then from back dart to half the 
waist measure and make a dot. Take half the space from dot 
just made and back dart and make dot H, and draw line 12 
from H up to the arm eye for back of front, slanting a little to 
the right. Then take the space of the darts you have taken 
out and put to the right of II on waist line, and make dot I, 
and put the same space to the right of half the waist measure 
dot, and make dot G, and draw line 13 from G to E for back 
of under arm gore ; draw line 14 from I up to end of line 12 in 
arm eye for front of under arm gore. 

P. S. — If half the waist measure comes to the right of line 
5, proceed the same as in Basque No. 2, with the exception 
of drawing the center and outside lines of darts together at 
bottom of paper. 

25. Extend lines 4 and 7 to the bottom of paper and 
center lines of darts, slanting back one-half inch, also outside 
lines of darts, letting them touch center lines at bottom of 
paper. 



28 EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 

26. Measure for hip line on lines 7 and 4 ; from line 1 the 
height of hip and draw line 15 for hip line. Mark C, D, G, I 
and H on hip line, exactly below letters on waist line. 

27. Draw back line from A to one-half inch to the left of 
end of line 4 at bottom of paper with rule. 

28. Draw inside of back from B straight down to bottom of 
paper with rule. 

29. Back of the side body is sloped from C one inch to the 
right of C on hip line. 

30. Front of side body is sloped from D one inch to the 
left of D on hip line. 

31. Back of under arm gore is sloped from G one inch to 
the right of G on hip line. 

32. Front of under arm gore is sloped from I three-fourths 
an inch to the left of I on hip line. 

33. Back of the front is sloped from H one and one-fourth 
inch to the right of II on hip line. 

34. If too large or too small after measuring all the places 
on hip line, add on or take oil' to suit the hip measure. 



30 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 




EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 31 

Rules for Drafting Sleeve No. 1. 

1. Line 1 is the diameter of arm eye and inside to wrist 
measure added, dot on this line where the diameter begins and 
make dot A, take half the space between dot A and end of line 
1 and make a dot, one-fourth inch to the left of this dot make 
dot B, to the left of dot A make dot C inside to bend measure. 

2. Line 2 is two-thirds the arm eye measure. 

3. Line 3 is the same length as line 1. 

4. Draw lines 4, 5 and 6 from dots B, A and C to line 3. 

5. On line 5, one-half inch from dot A, make dot D ; 
three-fourths of an inch from D make dot E. 

6. On line 6, one and one-half inches from dot C, make 
dot F ; three-fourths of an inch from dot F make dot G ; and 
draw a line from D to F and E to G ; and one inch above 
line 1 at bottom of sleeve make dot II, and draw line from F 
to H. 

7. Draw line 7 three-fourths the wrist measure straight 
down from end of line 1 ; and three inches to the left of the 
end of line 7 make a dot and draw line 8 from dot H to dot 
just made. 

8. On line 8 make dot K, three-fourths the wrist measure 
from dot H ; two inches inside of II make dot I, and from I, 
one-fourth the wrist measure, mark J. 

9. Dot L is one inch above line 3 on line 2. From L draw 
a line straight to line 4 and make dot M. Dot N is one-half 
the space between lines 1 and 3 on line 2 ; draw line from N 
to line 4 and make dot 0. 

10. On line 6, inside of F, mark for the elbow so that the 
upper sleeve is three inches wider than the under sleeve. 
Mark R for upper sleeve from F, and Q for under sleeve 
from G. 



32 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



11. Take tape measure and place shoulder measure on dot 
N and measure for elbow, letting tape pass line 6, between Q 
and R ; make a dot where your neck to elbow measure comes 
to ; then draw line 9 from F through dot just made to line 3, 
and mark Q and 11 on this line. 

12. Draw a line from M to R and from to Q last made, 
and from R to K, and from Q to J, and from G to I. 

13. Curve top of under sleeve from E to 0, and curve 
inside of upper sleeve from D to F and F to II, and curve 
inside of under sleeve from E to G and from G to I. In 
curving the top of upper sleeve begin at D and curve to one- 
quarter inch below dot N to line 2, and to one-half inch below 
dot M on line 4, and measure for upper, middle and lower arms 
and curve outside of sleeve according to measure. 

P. S. — The front seam of the sleeve is sewed in where the 
back shoulder line crosses line 6 on line 2, the back seam half 
the width of side body ; always make the sleeve from one to 
one and one-half inches larger than the arm eye. 



SKIRT DRAFT. 

COPYRIGHTED. 




34 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



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EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 35 



Rules for Drafting Sleeve No. 2. 



1. Line 1 is the diameter of arm eye and inside to wrist 
measure added, dot on this line where the diameter begins 
and make dot B, take half the space between dot B and end of 
line 1 and make a dot, one-fourth inch to the right of this dot 
make dot A, to the left of dot B make dot C inside to bend 
measure. 

2. Line 2 is two-thirds the arm-eye measure. 

3. Line 3 is the same length as line 1. 

4. Draw 7 lines 4, 5 and G from dots A, B and C to line 3. 

5. On line 5, one-half inch from dot B, make dot D ; three- 
fourths of an inch from D make dot E. 

6. On line 6, one and three-fourth inches from dot C. 
make dot F ; three-fourths of an inch from dot F make dot G ; 
and draw a line from D to F and E to G ; and one inch above 
line 1 at bottom of sleeve make dot H, and draw line from 
F to H. 

7. Draw line 7 three-fourths the wrist measure straight 
dowai from end of line 1 ; and three inches to the left of the 
end of line 7 make a dot and draw line 8 from dot H to dot 
just made. 

8. On line 8 make dot K, three-fourths the wrist measure 
from dot II ; two inches inside of H make dot I, and from I, 
one-fourth the wrist measure, mark J. 

9. Dot L is one and one-half inches above line 3 on line 2. 
From L draw a line straight to line 4 and make dot M. Dot 
N is one- third the space from L to end of line 1 and draw line 
from N to line 4 and make dot 0. 

10. On line 6, inside of F, mark for the elbow so that the 
upper sleeve is two inches wider than the under sleeve. Mark 
R for upper sleeve from F, and Q for under sleeve from G. 



36 EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 

11. Take tape measure and place shoulder measure on dot 
N and measure for elbow, letting tape pass line 6 between Q 
and R ; make a dot where your neck to elbow measure comes 
to ; then draw line 9 from F, through dot just made, to line 3, 
and mark Q and R on this line. 

12. Draw a line from M to R, and from to Q last made, 
and from R to K. and from Q to J, and G to I. 

13. Curve top of under sleeve from E to 0, and curve inside 
of upper sleeve from D to F and from F to H, and curve inside 
of under sleeve from E to G and from G to I. In curving the 
top of upper sleeve begin at D and curve to N and to M, and 
measure for upper, middle and lower arms, and curve outside of 
sleeve according to measure. 



For Misses or Children. 



Proceed as in Basque No. 1, until you get to Rule 18. 

18. Measure the space between lines 6 and 7 on slanting 
waist line, for darts, in four equal parts. The space between 
darts is found by measuring three-eighths of an inch on each 
side of the centre mark. 

11). Draw centre line of dart from the centre of space the 
height of dart and slant back one-fourth inch, then use long 
curvature from the top of the line to the centre of each dart, 
which will give the desired fullness for one dart. 

2(1. One and one-fourth inches to the left of dot A on waist 
line make dot B, then take half the space between dot A 
and line 5, and make dot C on waist line. Place large end of 
curvature at dot B and draw a. curve line to dot F, for inside 
of back. Use curvature the same way from dot C, letting it 
touch back line at line 2 for out«ide of side body. 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 37 

21. To find the back line of the front and width of side 
body, measure from B to A and from front curved line to 
dart, omitting the width of dart, and then from back of dart, 
to half the waist measure and make dot on waist line. 

22. Take half the space between this dot and back of dart 
and make dot H, dot D is the same distance to the right of H 
as the waist measure is from C. Draw line 12 from II up to 
arm eye half the space between lines 5 and 6, draw line 13 
from D up to top of line 12. 

23. Extend lines 4 and 7 to the bottom of paper and 
centre line of dart, also outside line of dart leaving one-half 
inch space each side of centre line. 

24. Measure for hip line on lines 7 and 4 ; from line 1 the 
height of hip and draw line 14 for hip line. 

25. Mark dots B, C, D and H on hip line. 

26. Draw back line from A to one-half inch to the left of 
end of line 4 at bottom of paper with rule. 

27. Draw inside of back from B straight down to bottom 
of paper with rule. 

28. Back of the side body is sloped from C one inch to the 
right of C on hip line. 

29. Front of side body is sloped from D two inches to the 
left of D on hip line. 

30. Back of front is sloped from H two inches to the right 
of H on hip line. 

31. If too large or too small after measuring all the places 
on hip line, add on or take off to suit the hip measure. 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



BLAZER COAT AND VEST. 



COPYRIGHTED. 




EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 39 



Blazer Coat and Vest. 



Proceed as in Basque No. 1, for Blazer coat and vest with 
the exception of the following changes : 

Draw line one 14 inches from bottom of paper for belt-line. 

Draw line 2 one-half inch higher than under arm measure. 

Dot [A] is one and one-half inches to the left of end of line 4. 

After getting arm-eye same as dress, then make back and 
front shoulder lines one-quarter inch shorter than curve coat- 
arm-eye around to one inch below junction of lines 2 and 6, 
which makes coat-arm-eye large enough to go over the dress. 

Put one Dart in vest-front. 

Find Dot [G-] and [H] the same as in Basque No. 1. 

Dot to the left of line 7 on lines 3 and 1 one-fourth the neck 
measure, and draw line from one-half inch above line 3 through 
dots just made down to bottom of paper, which makes front 
of coat, and curve neck to top of this line above line 3. 

Put in one-half inch dart at neck on line 7, as shown in draft. 

Three-fourth inch to the left of end of line 12, in arm-eye 
make a [dot.] Then measure the width of the dart at waist 
line and put the same space to the left of [H] and make a 
[dot,] use small end of curvature at dot in arm-eye, to [dot] 
at waist line, which makes back of the front of coat. 

Then measure under arm — side body and back, and from 
front of coat to half the hip measure, then use curvature from 
back of front coat on waist line to bottom of paper as shown 
in draft. 



4(1 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



DOUBLEIBREASTED COAT. 

Will be explained by Teacher. 




<xj PRICE, $5.00 ;E> 
EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



THE SCIENTIFIC 



Lady Tailor System 



FOR 



CUTTING LADIES' DRESSES <ff COATS. 



NO FITTING TO DO. ,&*"**£ 



IMPROVED AND SIMPLIFIED- 



HO 



SECOND EDITION. 



AS TAUGHT BY 



OPROF. LOUIS MOLPOERI> 
Washington, d.'c. 




COPYRIGHTED. 



BASQUE FOR FRENCH BIAS DART. 





















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